Why Polonnaruwa Ancient City will steal your heart
Imagine a royal capital from nearly a thousand years ago: palaces and audience halls, bathing pools, libraries and temples, all set around a vast man-made lake. Now imagine exploring it by bicycle, gliding along shady paths from one wonder to the next. Welcome to Polonnaruwa.
After the ancient capital of Anuradhapura was sacked in the late 10th century, the kings of Sri Lanka moved their capital to Polonnaruwa. The city reached its golden age under King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century, one of the island's greatest rulers. He built grand palaces and temples, and an enormous reservoir, the Parakrama Samudra, or 'Sea of Parakrama', which still irrigates the rice fields today. The whole ancient city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Start at the Royal Palace, whose thick brick walls once rose several storeys high, and the elegant Council Chamber, where carved stone elephants and lions guard the steps. Then head to the Quadrangle, the sacred heart of the city, packed with beautiful buildings. The highlight here is the circular Vatadage, a relic house with gracefully carved moonstones, guardian figures and four Buddha statues facing the four directions.
But the most extraordinary sight is saved for last. At Gal Vihara, four magnificent Buddha figures have been carved into a single long wall of granite: a seated Buddha in meditation, a smaller one in a cave, a standing figure with crossed arms and, finally, a serene reclining Buddha about 14 metres long. The detail is astonishing, from the gentle folds of the robe to the slight dip in the pillow beneath the Buddha's head. It's one of the masterpieces of Asian sculpture.
Grey langur and toque macaque monkeys play among the ruins, painted storks wade in the lake, and the whole site has a relaxed, open feel. It's large, so hiring a bicycle or letting your chauffeur guide drive you between the main groups is the way to go. Finish at sunset on the embankment of the Parakrama Samudra, as the water turns gold. It's pure magic.
