Why Pidurangala Rock will steal your heart
Ask any seasoned traveller in Sri Lanka for their favourite sunrise, and there's a good chance they'll say Pidurangala. This rugged granite outcrop stands just a short drive from Sigiriya, and from its summit you get the one view you can't have from Sigiriya itself: the Lion Rock in all its glory, rising dramatically from the jungle.
Pidurangala has its own history. The rock has been a Buddhist monastery for centuries, and according to tradition, the monks who once lived at Sigiriya moved here when King Kashyapa built his palace. At the foot of the rock is a working temple, and you'll need to cover your shoulders and knees as you pass through it.
The climb begins on stone steps through the forest, shaded and peaceful, with monkeys watching from the branches. Halfway up, you reach a large reclining Buddha, built of brick and lying serenely beneath an overhanging rock. From here the path becomes wilder, and the final stretch is a fun scramble over boulders. You'll need to use your hands in a couple of places, but it's short and manageable for most reasonably fit people.
Then you step out onto the broad, open summit, and the whole world opens up. Sigiriya stands right in front of you, glowing orange in the early light, while the jungle stretches away in every direction, dotted with ancient reservoirs and misty hills. At dawn, the mist often lies in the valleys like a sea of cloud. At sunset, the rock turns deep gold as the sky fades to pink.
It's raw, unpolished and utterly unforgettable, the kind of place where you put the camera down and just sit. If you want one moment of pure wonder in Sri Lanka, set your alarm and climb Pidurangala.
