Why Kandy & Kandyan Dance will steal your heart
Kandy has a grace that sets it apart from anywhere else in Sri Lanka. Built around a shimmering lake in a bowl of forested hills, it was the capital of the last independent Sinhalese kingdom, and it held out against the Portuguese and the Dutch for centuries before finally coming under British rule in 1815. Today it's Sri Lanka's cultural capital, and it still carries itself with a certain royal dignity.
The centrepiece is Kandy Lake, created in the early 19th century by the last king, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe. A gentle walk around its shores is the perfect way to get your bearings, passing the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, old colonial buildings and huge rain trees where fruit bats hang in the branches.
Kandy's markets are a feast for the senses. Browse stalls piled with spices, fruit and vegetables, or visit the gem and jewellery shops the city is known for. Kandy is also a centre for traditional crafts, from brassware and lacquerwork to handloom textiles. Climb up to one of the viewpoints above the town, or visit the huge white Buddha statue at Bahirawakanda temple, for a panoramic view over the lake and the hills beyond.
In the evening, don't miss a performance of Kandyan dance, one of Sri Lanka's great art forms. Dancers in glittering silver headdresses and beaded costumes leap and spin to the pounding rhythm of traditional drums, telling ancient stories. The show often ends with dramatic fire-walking over hot coals.
Kandy is also the perfect base for exploring: the Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya are just outside town, the Knuckles mountains are close by, and it's the gateway to the tea country and the famous train journey to Ella. Stay two nights, and you'll be glad you did.
